From young vines of the l’Hortus estate, and contract fruit, the tank-raised 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Bergerie Classique Blanc (reviewed already in issue 178 where I mis-identified it as “Coteaux du Languedoc” – in fact it was de-classified to Vin de Pays) blends roughly equal parts Chardonnay, Roussanne, Sauvignon (blanc and gris) with 10% Viognier, like all of the estate’s white grapes, grown in scree and at lower elevations. Acacia, white peach, mille grains, raw almond and herbs in the nose lead to an exceptionally refined, soothingly-textured palate and a sense of delicacy and lift one would ordinarily not expect from a Languedoc white. The finish here adds floral refinement and nut oil richness – understated yet lingering. Enjoy this impeccably-balanced white over the next 6 months; then look for the 2008, whose components showed impressively from tank in December. Domaine de l’Hortus’s dramatic location up against the cliffs of the Hortus and Pic Saint-Loup massifs themselves and offering shallow terraces with exposures ranging from north-facing for whites and Syrah (some propagated from Clape and Verset budwood) to south-facing for Mourvedre (from Tempier), sets it apart from other properties in its sub-appellation, and Languedoc pioneer Jean Orliac brings an unprecedented three decades of familiarity with this rocky realm of scree and iron- and quartzite-rich limestone. The striking timber winery reminds me of California, as does the adventurous and open-minded spirit Orliac and his enthusiastic, family-dominated team bring to their work. Since 2000, the Orliacs have farmed and bottled the fruits of Clos du Prieur (under its own label), a property at Saint-Jean de Bueges in the Terraces du Larazac, similarly situated up against a prominent massif.Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565