More of the 2011 Taleia was fermented in the so-called “rock fermenters” than the 2010, and it was bottled the day before tasting. Consequently the nose is tight and unyielding, although it certainly has fine minerality. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with hints of fresh grapefruit and nectarine, while it seems less malic than the 2010. That comes through on the palate, which has fine delineation and a very elegant, stony finish with hints of white peach and nectarine on the aftertaste. Superb. Drink 2013-2020. It was a long, long drive to visit Castell d’Encus, located in the foothills of the Pyrenees at almost 1,000 metres altitude at the end of a never-ending winding lane that should be sign-posted “middle of nowhere.” It was 10:45 p.m. when we finally arrived in the pitch black. Winemaker, former director of Torres and partner in Priorat’s “Ferrer-Bobet,” Raul Bobet came to greet me. It had been a long day. I was knackered. My palate was asking where the hell dinner had gone? Fortunately, my palate was about to taste a portfolio of extremely accomplished, delicious, intellectually satisfying wines that formed one of the highlights of my trip. This is an example of extreme, obsessive winemaking, Raul often asking himself what the hell he was doing. What inspired him was the chance discovery of “rock fermenters.” These are medieval vessels carved into the stone that must have been used by the local monks. They were using gravity long before the Bordelais were crowing about it. Raul has trialled these fermenters and is now beginning to ferment his entire portfolio in them. It gives a new meaning to the word: “minerality.” (Check the winery’s website to see the fermenters: www.encuseng.weebly.com) Importers: VINoVI&Co, 401 West Marshall Avenue, Ferndale, MI 48220 and United Cellars, 2248 NW 82nd Avenue, Doral, FL 33122