This Unfiltered Chardonnay exhibits plenty of texture as well as handsome honeyed citrus, orange, smoky hazelnut, and tropical fruit characteristics. The 2000 is a rich, smoky, mineral, and fruit-driven wine with considerable oomph to its flavors. It is best drunk over the next three years. (Release date 9/02) Tel. (707) 963-9000; Fax (707) 963-5408

The winemaker calls this wine “minerally,” and it’s true thatit’s not a ripely opulent Chard, although there are some pleasant tropical fruit flavors along with the herbs and stones. But mainly this is a firm wine, well-oaked, with bracing acidity. Turns a bit sharp on the finish.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 90