Drouhin’s 2007 Charmes-Chambertin displays abundant, pure ripe cherry fruit, along with resinous and caramel notes from barrel and just a hint of beef stock. There is a supple feel without the wine lacking torpor, and satisfying length, but this is a bit deficient in verve or complexity to generate any real excitement. I would enjoy it over the next several years.
“2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted).
Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770