Here’s a big, boldly flavored Pinot that offers a burst of currant, root beer, cherry and allspice flavors encased in firm, slightly brittle tannins. Although the wine is silky and balanced, those young tannins make it a bit tight. Give it until mid-2009 to come around, but it will really begin to blossom 2010–2013.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 90