The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a huge, towering wine bursting at the seams with dark, virtually black fruit. Notes of smoke, incense, tar and licorice add further layers of gravitas to this decidedly powerful, plush Brunello. Waves of fruit layered with expressive perfumed floral overtones build to the effortless, cascading finish. I was not a huge fan of the straight 2006 Brunello, but it looks like Lisini saved the best juice for the Riserva. This big boy is going to need considerable cellaring, but it is a jewel of a wine. The Riserva spent 42 months in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. I was struck with the wines I tasted from Lisini this year. All three Brunelli merit serious attention. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900