The 2009 Clos Mogador has a more opulent, luscious bouquet than the 2008, with lifted, high-toned floral fruit (iodine, star anise and sloe) and a smudge of warm alcohol. The palate is full-bodied with succulent, gamey dark fruits and an underlying earthiness that should develop with bottle age. It exudes fine tension and poise and is very expressive on the structured finish, which will mellow nicely. Clos Mogador needs no introduction. Rene Barbier was a pupil of Jean-Claude Berrouet and is one of the “founding fathers” in Priorat as part of the “Gratallops group.” I met him for the first time at his home, located at the bottom of a never-ending winding dirt track and surrounded by vines. He was accompanied by his wife and energetic son, also named Rene and married to Sara Perez (see Mas Martinet.) Their 20-hectare dry farmed, vineyard is located on schistous slate and quartz soil (llicorella) and planted with 40% Garnacha (80-year-old vines) , 20% Carinena, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Syrah. The wine is raised in Nevers and Allier oak with minimal intervention. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com , except for “Manyetes” (Bryce McNamee., Loest & McNamee; www.boutiquewines.info)