Starts off with sulfury notes reminiscent of burnt matchstick; slightly rubbery. But with airing, subtle citrus and floral notes emerge, unfolding into baked apple, pear and melon flavors on the palate. This shows balance, elegance and finesse on the crisp, long finish—just give it some time in a decanter if you’re going to be drinking it soon. Imported by Chapin Cellars. ——J.C.(5/1/2006)—— 88