The 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett trocken is quite delicate in frame but by no means spare or excessively lean. A nose of pear and fresh cherry, lime and apple wood has an almost Saar-like quality to it. Saline and crushed stone mineral sensations suffuse a subtly creamy yet juicy palate, with 12% alcohol acting as it if were 11% in a ringing finish of buoyancy and refreshment. This versatile and delicious wine will prove impossible (if you’re like me, at least) to stop drinking over the next 2-3 years. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 12-27.Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Apple and crushed stone re-appear in the nose of Marcus Haag’s 2007 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett A.P. #11, here accompanied by yeasty and gaseous residues of spontaneous fermentation that gradually shake off. A palpable sense of extract and stuffing is somehow conveyed along with a sense of delicacy, despite a for Kabinett high 9.5% alcohol. Less intriguingly mineral than the A.P. #7, this boasts greater textural allure and some will prefer its enhanced richness. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 12-27.Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

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Slightly funky and leesy on the nose, with somewhat sweaty overtones to the citrus and apple aromas. But the flavors are pure, suggesting that the aromatics just need some time to come around—or a quick decanting. It’s medium in body, with a crisp, tangy finish that artfully balances sweet and tart.——J.C.(3/1/2009)—— 88