Winemaker/proprietor Mia Klein has always done a top-flight job with Sauvignon Blanc. The Loire Valley-styled 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Hyde Vineyard reveals the texture of a mid-weight Chardonnay. Aromas of melon, figs and spicy, smoky gun flint jump from the glass of this complex Sauvignon. Medium-bodied with crisp acidity as well as a surprisingly intense mid-palate, it should age for several years.It’s a shame Merlot has taken such a beating. Certainly, the poor examples have fallen by the wayside, but some good ones are still out there and readers need to pay more attention to them. It’s a world-class grape so forget the absurdity of the anti-Merlot nonsense in the movie “Sideways.”Tel. (707) 258-8119; Fax (707) 258-8132

Dry, ripe and exotic. Made from the Musque clone, it shows melon, lime, mineral and white pepper flavors, with a touch of New Zealand-style gooseberry, brightened with crisp acidity. There are some green, feline notes that will make the wine controversial. Tasted twice.——S.H.(9/1/2010)—— 86