The 2003 Barolo Ceretta possesses greater depth than the Baudana in its jammy blackberries, blueberries, menthol and toasted oak. Made in a full-bodied, strapping style, it needs another year or two in bottle to settle down. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Baudana is a family-run estate located in Serralunga, the part of the Barolo zone that has been the last to emerge, especially with regards to its smaller, artisanal growers. Importer: Vinilandia USA, Kittery, ME; (978) 457-5508; Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010