A more tense, focused expression of Nebbiolo comes through in the 2008 Barolo Cerretta. Firm yet well-balanced tannins provide the backdrop for expressive dark red fruit, spices and licorice. There is a mid-palate pliancy and generosity in the 2008 that is a bit unusual in this vintage, but at the same time there is also plenty of underlying structure. In 2008, the Cerretta is similar in style to Vajra's Barolo Albe. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. I remain utterly amazed at the total transformation that has occurred under the hands of the Vajra family at what was once the old dilapidated Baudana estate, and the best is yet to come. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Rinascimento Wine Co., Santa Monica, CA; tel. (310) 314-1136