The 2004 Barolo Cerretta is a dark, brooding offering loaded with super-ripe dark fruit, tar smoke and sweet toasted oak. There is excellent depth and persistence, but the wine ultimately comes across as somewhat monolithic and four-square, particularly in the coarse tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Baudana is a small producer based in Serralunga. Importers: Artisan Wine, Norwalk, CT; tel. (203) 866-4552; Vinity Wine Company, Emeryville, CA; tel. (510) 601-6010; Vinilandia USA, Kittery, ME; (978) 457-5508

Luigi Baudana enjoys a long history with the Cerretta cru and that experience has led to extraordinary results. This is one of the darkest Barolos we saw in 2004 and its thick concentration is offset by soft nuances of black cherry, vanilla, espresso and smoky overtones. It has thick, tart tasting tannins and offers loads of Indian spice on the finish.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 94