The 2003 Barolo Brunate is sweet, pure and beautiful in its expression of dark fruit, tobacco, menthol and toasted oak. This poised, nuanced Barolo reveals outstanding length, well-integrated tannins and a judicious use of French oak, with a long, lingering finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. For the most part, this is a strong set of new wines from Ceretto. The 2004 single-vineyard Barbarescos are both outstanding and the Barolo selections aren’t too far behind. Unfortunately there is no Barolo Bricco Rocche in 2003. The wines still show a generous use of oak, but when vintage conditions are favorable, the wines can be beautiful, as the 2004 Barbarescos attest. My one criticism is of the entry-level wines. The Barbaresco Asij and Barolo Zonchera are both disappointing relative to best wines at this level. Ceretto certainly has the resources to do better. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Shows plenty of white truffle and blackberry, with coffee bean undertones. Full-bodied, firm and silky, with a long finish. Very pretty and fresh. Best after 2011. 1,200 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

At the first it was quite muted and subdued, but over a ten minute period it developed beautifully in the glass. The dark fruit is still dominant, but it is beginning to show some interesting tertiary aromas of earth, mushrooms and leather. Well balanced with a medium finish. Needs a few more years, but can be enjoyed now with a good deal of pleasure. ——M.G.(12/22/2011)—— 91