This is where things start getting tricky. The 2009 Barolo Brunate opens with savory aromas of barbecue smoke, cured meat and crushed granite, although there is not much fruity brightness to hope for long cellar aging. In fact, slightly gritty tannins and tertiary aromas inspire me to drink this sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Ceretto is a landmark estate and a world ambassador that has done much to teach Barolo appreciation around the world. Not only do they jealously safeguard their well-earned reputation for top-notch wines, but the various generations that have managed this historic winery understood sooner than most that the Langhe must also be developed to attract trouists. The various estates they own are adorned with massive projects of modern art and innovative buildings that make for irresistible touring destinations. As I write this report, I am looking out my window at the Ceretto glass “cube” that sits so regally on the crest of the Bricco Rocche cru above Castiglione Falletto. I have been taunted, nostalgically, each evening by the distant music and laughter emanating from that fascinating architectonic beacon of light and aspiration. Back to the wines: Ceretto is a brand of consistent high scores and accolades. But the 2009 vintage represents something of a lull for this venerated producer. I did not encounter the same clarity of voice or conviction of message that past vintages have delivered. My hope is that this is indeed a temporary lull. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Sweet cherry, berry and licorice flavors mark this aromatic, salty red, which is firm and juicy, with a tightly wound finish showing balance overall. Assertive tannins corral the long, spicy finish. Best from 2016 through 2030. 540 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add