The 1999 Haut Bergey is a classic Graves. It is extraordinarily complex aromatically, light on its feet in the mouth as well as a model of elegance and symmetry. The color is dark ruby, and the splendid nose reveals notes of cigar tobacco intermixed with plum, cherry, and currant fruit, grilled herbs, and roasted nuts. It is medium-bodied, with sweet fruit on the attack, and an expansive Burgundian-like finish with light tannin and enough acidity to provide grip, freshness, and delineation. This terrific effort needs to be consumed during its first 7-12 years of life.