There is one white wine, the 2008 Sierra Cantabria Organza, a blend of 65% Viura, 18% Malvasia, and 17% Garnacha Blanca that was barrel-fermented and aged sur lie with frequent batonnage. Light gold-colored, it offers up a perfume of melon, candle wax, spring flowers, and honey. Concentrated, long, and spicy on the palate, it is buttressed by lively acidity. Drink this balanced effort over the next 3-4 years.
Bodegas Sierra Cantabria is another outstanding Rioja estate owned and operated by the Eguren family. The highlight of my visit in May, 2010 was a vertical of their two renowned single vineyard wines, Amancio and Finca El Bosque. Not to be overlooked is their complete portfolio of new releases, several of which are superb values. The Amancio cuvee comes from a single vineyard of the same name. There is a severe triage in the vineyard before the grapes reach the sorting table. It spends 24 months in new French oak using a “200% new oak” aging regimen before bottling without fining or filtration. The Finca El Bosque Vineyard is a 4 acre parcel of Tempranillo planted on gravel in 1973. The wine is put through ML in new oak and spends 18 months in new, mostly French oak.
Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767