Riesling is king at Domaine Marcel Deiss. I tasted seven totally distinct Rieslings with Deiss. The 1994 Riesling St.-Hippolyte is austere, with light intensity, green apple scents, an underlying mineral/tangerine-like fruitiness, medium body, high acidity, and an intriguing leesy component. The wine needs another 8-12 months to open, but it is impressively pure and well-built. Readers should realize that the 1994s are exceptionally young, relatively unevolved wines that are just beginning to hint at their potential.Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579