The 2005 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese – from a great site that has languished in obscurity for the past half century – bespeaks Loewen’s notion of Auslese “meant to drink and enjoy rather than to impress critics.” (Well, perhaps he was wrong about the last part!) Seventy-five grams of residual sugar are almost miraculously swallowed up in the inner clockwork of this wine so that it tastes almost halbtrocken. Pineapple, mandarin, and white peach aromas and juicy fruitedness make for an utterly engaging and refreshing impression. Notes of honey, citrus oil, subtle botrytis spice, and high-toned herbal essences all add complexity. Neither creamy nor oily in feel, this Auslese makes a virtue of its relatively spare texture to concentrate on Kabinett-like fresh fruit, minerality, and an unabashed urge to quench thirst. But before you can succumb to the urge for the next sip, you have to marvel at the sheer length of this, with its clarity of fruit and mineral interplay. How will this lovely wine with its distinctively delicious “drink me now!” personality fare over time? My guess is you could safely sock this away for two decades, but obviously one would want enough wine to revisit often. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300