Loewen’s 2009 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Auslese – rendered from botrytized bunches (Loewen estimates 30% affected berries) – is priced to offer incredible value. Lime, kiwi, and grapefruit give a bright cast to the nose and the initial attack, with quince, nut pastes, liquid floral perfume, and herbal essences adding allure to a delicate, polished, persistently refreshing palate performance. At only 8.5% alcohol, it’s obvious this is carrying a huge load of residual sugar, but it does so with aplomb, while perfectly fitting its author’s designs on rendering an Auslese of consummate refreshment that wine lovers will really want to drink in a range of circumstances and already in its youth – which is not to say you wouldn’t do well by holding some of this for 20 or more years. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300