The 1999 Pinot Noir Van Der Kamp (135 cases, aged in 67% new French oak) is a medium to full-bodied, relatively muscular, chewy-styled Pinot that needs another year of cellaring. The wine is deep, rich, concentrated, and structured. (Release date 9/01)Tel. (707) 578-3882; fax (707) 578-3884.

Starts out with barnyard and forest floor aroma; eventually, some dried currant and raspberry emerge. There’s an abundance of depth to the funky, esoteric palate as well as the full allotment of tobacco and herbs. Is it an easy wine? Not at all. But connoisseurs could find it right up their alley. ——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 87