Readers who like earth-driven Pinots should check out Siduri’s 2005 Pinot Noir Van Der Kamp Vineyard. Dark ruby-hued with hints of plums, autumn leaves, underbrush, and forest floor, this is one of the more masculine wines of this group, with more structure and acidity, but not the charm and seductiveness of its siblings. Consume it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (707) 578-3882; Fax (707) 578-3884

This is one of the riper of Siduri’s crop of ’05 single-vineyard Pinots. It bursts with cherry jam, sweet cola, vanilla and coffee fudge flavors that make it delicious, but it’s no mere fruit bomb. The complex of acids, tannins and oak give it dimensions worth pondering. Best now and for five years.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 90