This most expensive of Mabileau’s bottlings, 2005 Bourgueil Eclipse – from what purport to be some of the oldest vines in the entire appellation -- was also his best. Ripe blackberry and black cherry aromas are mingled with a Franc-typical smokiness and toasted nut note. With deep flavors of chocolate, walnut, and black fruits, this finishes with a bit of tannic and mineral austerity, but also an over-riding juiciness of fruit.A Jon-David Headrick Selection (various importers), Carborro, NC; tel. (919) 932-3450