Lafon is particularly proud of what he’s accomplished in recent vintages with his parcel of Monthelie Les Duresses as he’s been able to prevent its tendency towards rusticity. The 2002 is a particularly successful effort. Dark cherries and spices can be detected in this wine’s sappy, medium-bodied personality. Revealing outstanding concentration and depth, it coats the taster’s palate with loads of cassis liqueur, jammy blackberries, and cherries that linger in its long, supple finish. Projected maturity: now-2011. Importers: Various, including Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 625-2505,Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, and Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 841-9815