Loads of black cherries are found in the aromatic profile of the 2003 Monthelie Les Duresses (red). Light to medium-bodied, it offers blackberries, brambleberries, and spices in its silky, expressive character. Though it is the only red Lafon didn’t acidify (the Volnays were adjusted no more than 50 grams per 228-liter barrel), there is a surprising shot of bright acidity that appears in the finish. Projected maturity: now-2010.