The best of these releases is the 1999 Old Vines Gran Reserva, also 100% Tempranillo. It was aged 24 months in predominantly used American oak and then given an additional 36 months in bottle prior to release. It is more marked by the oak treatment showing attractive cedar and tobacco notes intermixed with spicy red fruits. On the palate, the wine has good density, nuanced flavors, and enough structure to provide pleasurable drinking over the next six years. Importer: Quintessential, www.quintessentialwines.com

Not often do you come across an aged Valdepenas red, especially one with style, structure and character. The nose of dried fruits and spices also features cigar box and tomato, while the palate of red plum, cherry and tomato is mature. With some length and intensity to the finish, this is perfect to drink now.——M.S.(8/1/2007)—— 89