At first, the 1998 Chardonnay seems almost too restrained, but with air and coaxing, the wine reveals more alluring characteristics. Not a shy wine (14.5% alcohol), this full-bodied, elegant, textbook example of power and finesse offers impeccable use of subtle oak for seasoning, plenty of ripe, buttery, and honeysuckle-like fruit, an underlying note of minerals, and an intense, pure, nicely-constructed, medium to full-bodied finish. This brilliant Chardonnay is one of the finest produced in Australia. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. A Ted Schrauth Selection, Old Vines Australia, imported by Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (408) 689-9080, and C. Daniele, New York, NY; tel. (212) 534-3421