This 2014 Chardonnay is a fresher and more vibrant version of 2012. This is softer somehow—plusher. It is pillowed and cushioned and salty, layered with preserved citrus, amaro herbs, rosemary, saltbush and fennel flower alongside all the peaches, apples and orchard goodness. This is a bit of a marvel. Whether the 2012 or the 2014 is in a better place right now remains to be seen… Both offer total pleasure, albeit from different sides of the same coin.