The 2005 Pinot Noir “Canary Hill Vineyard” is lean. Leaning to the red fruit side of the spectrum, it has a racy, elegant personality with bright fruit but with a touch of tartness in the finish. I would opt for drinking it near-term while the fruit holds. Ken Wright has a Syrah/Claret project under the Tyrus Evans label. The fruit is sourced from southern Oregon and eastern Washington. I tasted four wines, all of them outstanding. I list them without tasting notes: 2004 Claret “Del Rio Vineyard – 90; 2004 Claret “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard” – 91; 2005 Syrah, Walla Walla – 92; 2005 Syrah “Del Rio Vineyard” – 90+. Ken Wright Cellars has long been one of the reference points for Pinot Noir fanatics. Ken Wright is the ultimate terroirist, stating on his web site (which I highly recommend reading) that the value of Pinot Noir is that it is the perfect vehicle for expressing the characteristics of the site in which it is grown. He says that the secret to making great Pinot Noir is “?learning how to farm. Every vineyard has its own issues.” Tel. (800) 571-6825; www.kenwrightcellars.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Blanc (91), 2005 Chardonnay “Celilo Vineyard” (93)

This is the sort of Pinot that most Oregon vintners would kill for; forward, tart and spicy with scents and flavors of black cherry cola right out front. The tangy red fruit is lifted with light citrus, buttressed with well-modulated tannins, and enhanced with beautiful undertones of moist earth, leaf and spice. Great structure, acidity and persistence.——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 93