The estate vineyard is in Calistoga, and the wine shows gorgeously ripe flavors but never loses its basic Napa elegance and balance. Filled with flamboyant blackberry jam, cherry, cassis, licorice, chocolate and smoky vanilla-oak flavors, it appeals immediately to the tastebuds, but has the tannin-acid balance to age for a decade.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 90