It is going to be the rare case where a 1996 Napa Chardonnay turns out to be better than its 1995 counterpart. The latter vintage is undoubtedly one of the classic vintages for California Chardonnay, while 1996 is merely good. Beringer's three cuvees of 1996 Chardonnay are all extremely well-made. The most lavishly rich Beringer Chardonnay is always the Sbragia Limited Release. The 1996 (production is inching up to nearly 2,000 cases) is the most tightly-knit wine yet produced by Beringer's multi-gifted winemaker, Ed Sbragia. This 100% new French oak-aged, full malolactic, blockbuster Chardonnay takes hedonism to a rarely encountered level. While the 1996 is extremely substantial and full-bodied, it does appear to possess more delineation and finesse than some of the overwhelming examples of the past. This is a buttery, tropical fruit, smoky style of Chardonnay reminiscent of the old style Chalone Chardonnays from the late seventies and early eighties. The 1996 displays good acidity, plenty of power and punch, and lavish richness and length. While it offers a mouthful of unbridled Chardonnay fruit, the wine displays a surprising number of nuances.
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