The finest vineyards and lots are isolated by the ebullient Ed Sbragia to fashion the blend for the 2000 Chardonnay Sbragia Limited Release (4,000 cases). This can be the most exotic, concentrated, and over-the-top Chardonnay from California. While that results in thrilling drinking, I can understand why those tasters more familiar with the delicacy and restraint of French white Burgundies find the Sbragia Limited Release too bold and flavorful for their tastes. Those readers should give the 2000 a try as it is more restrained, subtle, and nuanced. Nevertheless, it is extremely rich and full-bodied, with copious quantities of vanilla, caramel, and honeyed tropical fruits. It represents Ed Sbragia's attempt to push Chardonnay to the limit. He admirably succeeds year in and year out. Although the 2000 is a more delicate effort than usual, it remains a Chardonnay on steroids. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.
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