The 2007 Tempranillo Inigo Montoya was raised in second use oak. It is deep crimson-colored with a super-expressive perfume of smoke, earth notes, black cherry, and blackberry. Medium-bodied and elegant on the palate, it has superb depth, lots of spice, succulent flavors, and exceptional length. It will drink well for a decade. Its only domestic competition is Cayuse’ Impulsivo Tempranillo made by Christophe Baron. Gramercy Cellars was started by Master Sommelier Greg Harrington in 2005. He states, “My goal is to make wines the kind I like to drink, lower alcohol, higher acid, wines that taste like they came from some place.” His last set of releases, reviewed in Issue 177, was first-class but the latest collection is eye-opening. My advice: get on Gramercy’s mailing list while you still can. Tel. (509) 876-2427; www.gramercycellars.com

The vineyard source is Les Collines, with 15% Grenache and 5% Syrah in the blend. Tart and lacey, dotted with baking spices, showing surprising length for its lightness, this elegant Tempranillo from young vines has excellent structure and penetration. It finishes spicy and herbal, with a hint of stem.——P.G.(9/1/2010)—— 89