The 2004 Barbaresco Asij reveals an open, sweet personality with suggestions of flowers, spices and toasted oak that complement the fruit. The Asij has always been a fairly accessible bottling, but the 2004 looks to be surprisingly early-maturing. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014. For the most part, this is a strong set of new wines from Ceretto. The 2004 single-vineyard Barbarescos are both outstanding and the Barolo selections aren’t too far behind. Unfortunately there is no Barolo Bricco Rocche in 2003. The wines still show a generous use of oak, but when vintage conditions are favorable, the wines can be beautiful, as the 2004 Barbarescos attest. My one criticism is of the entry-level wines. The Barbaresco Asij and Barolo Zonchera are both disappointing relative to best wines at this level. Ceretto certainly has the resources to do better.Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Aromas of blackberry, meat and hints of flowers follow through to a full-bodied palate, with soft, silky tannins and a medium finish. Has outstanding concentration. Best after 2010. 2,350 cases made, 800 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbaresco Select to Add

In 2004, Ceretto has made a pleasant, fragrant Barbaresco; on the nose it had dark fruit aromas mingled with dried roses and a hint of mint. On the palate, the fruit is soft and the floral quality more pronounced. Nice, medium finish. Needs a couple more years.——M.G.(12/31/2007)—— 89