From La Colombiere, just east of the village, the Cathiard 2005 Vosne-Romanee displays bright cherry and cranberry on the nose, an alternation of brisk freshness with hints of caramel and a subtle floral note on a creamy, texturally refined palate, and a lovely finish in which the fruits and flowers are joined by white pepper and cardamom. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($39.00;85). A Becky Wassserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70