Made from 75% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah, the classic 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape la Reserve Secrete is a full-bodied, concentrated, tannic and almost austere wine that has lots of graphite, asphalt, licorice and chocolate aromas and flavors. Straight, structured, classic and focused are all the buzz words here, and it has budged a bit since release. Forget it for 3-4 years and it will have 15+ years or more of longevity.

The large-scaled, opaque purple-colored 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Secrete reveals some evidence of barrique aging, but with Provencal typicity. Lavender, roasted Provencal herbs, meat juices, black cherry liqueur, cassis, and resiny aromas soar from the glass of this broad, brawny, masculine, full-bodied wine. Deep, dense, and built for the long haul, this Chateauneuf du Pape is very concentrated, textured, and long. It should only be purchased by patient connoisseurs as it requires 5-6 years of cellaring. It will last for two to three decades. By the way, at seven years of age, the 2000 Reserve Secrete hasn’t budged from its infancy. A bottle of 1978 Domaine de la Solitude Chateauneuf du Pape drunk recently was a revelation in its richness and intensity. Unquestionably this estate made some fabulous wines in the sixties and seventies (1967 was monumental in its first 10-15 years of life, but I have not had it in well over a decade). After a 10-15 year flirtation with a modern, commercial, insipid winemaking style, this estate has returned with a vengeance, producing some of the great wines of the appellation. However, they are clearly meant to be a progressive take on the qualities of Chateauneuf du Pape.Importer: Langdon Shiverick Inc, Los Angeles CA, 213 483-5900

Modern ripe fruit and oak nose. Open, lush and chewy red fruits with lashings of creamy vanilla oak. Hard to fault.