A 60/40 split of Grenache and Syrah, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape la Reserve Secrete is a much more open, flamboyant and sexy wine, especially when tasted beside the more backwards, tight and structured 2010. Kirsch, spice box, incense, flowers and garrigue all emerge from this beautiful, full-bodied, sexy 2009 that has sweet tannin and a great texture. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Secrete (65% tank-aged Grenache and 35% small oak-aged Syrah) boasts a dense ruby/purple color (nearly as dark as the Barberini) in addition to abundant blackberry, cassis, kirsch and spice box characteristics intermixed with hints of oak and forest floor. This rich, full-bodied, opulent wine is more developed and evolved than either the 2007 or 2005 were at a similar stage. It is a brilliant Chateauneuf du Pape meant to evolve over 15 years. A rarity in Chateauneuf du Pape, this large estate has one single holding of nearly 75 acres all situated in the lieu-dit called La Solitude, which is adjacent to the famed rocky plateau of La Crau (the earliest maturing and most precocious terroir of the appellation). Most estates’ parcels are spread throughout the appellation, so this is a rare occurrence indeed. This is also one of the oldest estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, tracing its history back to the 13th century. Domaine de la Solitude has been run by the Lancon family for many decades. They were one of the first estates to estate-bottle, and I remember having a prodigious Domaine de la Solitude 1967 that was one of those formative wines that got my attention when I was a college student. They make multiple cuvees and over the last 5 or 6 years, they have shown great amelioration thanks to the efforts of Jean and Michel Lancon. No 2010s were tasted as the proprietors do not like to show unbottled wines, but I imagine they are brilliant given how well they have done in 2009, as well as with the spectacular late-released 2007s.Importer: David Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900