I found both the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2003 Stella Maris to be too tannic and rustic to merit recommending. The 2003 Merlot Columbia Valley (9,137 cases) displays attractive aromas of chocolate-tinged blackberries and dark cherries. Armed with excellent to outstanding depth of fruit, this dark berry-flavored wine is medium-bodied and firmly tannic. It should be consumed between 2009 and 2014. Tel. (866) 486-7828; www.northstarmerlot.com

Aggressive, expensive-tasting French oak rules the day here, with moderately ripe, totally generic black cherry fruit flavors. It’s all about the barrel, with butterscotch, toast, butter and more butter. Very tasty, quite drinkable, but extremely simple. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 88