The estate’s 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Akronte is even better. This deep, powerful wine explodes with the essence of black cherries, licorice, new leather and wild herbs in an utterly convincing style. The wine shows a level of density and concentration that should allow it to drink beautifully over the coming years. This sexy, racy Cabernet is another great effort from Boccadigabbia. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This set of wines from Boccadigabbia is impressive. Boccadigabbia is a fascinating estate in that its roots stretch all the way back to the reign of Napoleon III. The custom of growing French grapes dates back to that period, which explains the estate’s success, particularly with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1996 the Alessandri family added to its holdings at Boccadigabbia with the purchase of the Villamagna estate, another property with a history that dates back hundreds of years. The wines are aged in French oak; neutral barrels are for the entry-level wines and new oak for the Pix and Akronte. These remain some of the most interesting wines being made in the Marche today. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411