Produced from a vineyard that tends to fashion firm, muscular, highly structured wines in other winemakers’ hands, Januik’s 2003 Merlot Klipsun Vineyard once again spotlights its terroir’s qualities yet none of its potential pitfalls (typically modest, Januik attributes this to picking later than most and the luck of working with a particularly good parcel of the vineyard). Its chocolate-laced black cherry and spice aromas lead to a hugely concentrated core of intense black cherries and blackberries. Powerful, highly expressive, pure, and prolonged in the finish, this wine is one of the reasons why lovers of Merlot should gaze at Washington State with desire. It should be enjoyed over the next dozen years. Tel. (425) 481-5502; www.januikwinery.com