Bursin’s 2006 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle displays fungal aromas alongside mint, rose petal, litchi, and pineapple. Surprisingly refreshing on the palate and with roasted meat and carob undertones that lend depth, this clings with restrained sweetness. I would plan on enjoying it over the coming 6-8 years, but see no reason to worry about it falling apart as one should about many 2006s. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29