Sweet, glossy, and glycerin-rich, the Bursin 2009 Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepfle delivers copious rose petal, litchi, marzipan, and honey – confectionary to be sure, but endearingly so, and with a welcome sense of levity and primary juiciness as well as an intensely clinging cinnamon stick spiciness to its finish. This is for all intents and purposes a V.T., but represents the product of young vines which, opines Bursin, could not deliver the requisite richness to justify inclusion in this year’s corresponding V.T. Be that as it may, I’d be inclined to implicate youthfulness of vines in precisely the levity, juiciness, and exuberant personality of this non-V.T. bottling. Agathe Bursin continues to fearlessly experiment as well as to enjoy a strong legion of fans. I skipped a few of the less-expensive wines in her line-up during my recent vintage due to a shortage of time.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29