The 1997 Barbaresco is exotic, ostentatious, and spectacularly rich. I suspect those oenologists who subscribe to the anti-pleasure school of wine-making would argue the acidity is too low, but this wine reveals a soaring chocolatey, cedary, black cherry liqueur-scented nose. With fabulous intensity and glycerin, this seductive, hedonistic offering possesses all the characteristics of a terrific Barbaresco (a rose petal, tar, and cherry liqueur-like fragrance), with unbelievable body and a voluptuous mouth-feel. Anticipated maturity: now-2008. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411