Enticing aromas of smoke and minerals meld into an expressive core of fruit as the 2008 Chardonnay Altkirch opens up in the glass. This refined white shows plenty of varietal character within the essentially steely, mineral-driven framework that defines the wines of Alto Adige. I am generally not a huge fan of Alto Adige Chardonnays, but this is simply irresistible juice. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Once again, I came away from my tastings deeply impressed with the wines of Colterenzio. Pound for pound and dollar for dollar these are some of the finest wines from Northern Italy. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham, Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200