The 2004 Castello del Terriccio opens with enticing suggestions of licorice, leather, scorched earth and roasted coffee beans that meld into a muscular, full-bodied palate imbued with dark fruit. The wine possesses notable density, richness and complexity along with tannins that are beautifully woven into its fabric. It is an important wine in this great Tuscan vintage, but patience is warranted. A blend of 50% Syrah, 25% Petit Verdot and 25% miscellaneous grapes, it spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Consulting oenologist Carlo Ferrini has always spoken of Terriccio’s 2004s with great enthusiasm, so it is great to finally taste the wines in bottle. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

The aromas are clean, intense and penetrating and exhibit ripe black fruit with measured background shadings of spice, vanilla, toast and distant herbal tones. The blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot (with 25% other varieties) showcases the full beauty of its vintage in a feminine and understated way. But at the same time, this wine is determined and powerful.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 95