The 2005 Castello del Terriccio has developed beautifully since I last tasted it a year ago. The minerality has begun to emerge as the fruit continues its journey towards a more tertiary state. Menthol, sweet baking spices add complexity on the long, pure finish. As is often the case, the 2005 Castello is a wine that needs significant time in bottle to reveal the full breadth of its potential. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. If I have learned one thing over the many years I have followed Castello del Terriccio it is that the wines need plenty of time in bottle. These are far from the easygoing, open reds made throughout much of Tuscany’s Maremma. The wines need to be opened well in advance and served in large glasses. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

There’s a very linear and elegant quality to this wine that recalls perfectly ripened blueberry and crisp cherry. Beyond those bright fruit tones, this blend of Syrah, Petit Verdot and other mixed grapes offers hearty aromas of smoked ham, crushed pepper and worn leather. ——M.L.(12/15/2010)—— 92