The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben is one – usually the “l(fā)ightest,” if that is the right word for wine of 13+% alcohol – from among several Gruner Veltliners that Brundlmayer vinifies in oak demi-muids (300 liter barrels). This 2004 version displays aromas of honeydew and musk melons, wood smoke, dried pears, white pepper, and shriveled Gruner Veltliner berries. Deceptively delicate in feel on the palate, it nevertheless saturates with formidable intensity of rich fruit, wood smoke and pepper. Recently bottled, I suspect that this already impressive wine is not yet really strutting its full stuff. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300