The Les Vaucrains is good, has medium ruby color, and should be at its peak by 1992. This famous and important estate historically has produced some of the finest red burgundies in the Cote d'Or. I know Michel Gouges and his son Christian well, having visited with them on many occasions. It is therefore all the more difficult to say that I do not believe their wines are nearly as concentrated and as rich as they should be. The 1983s are very light in color and seem also lacking in concentration. Gouges filters his wines, perhaps too aggressively.