This wine was first made in 1995 under the leadership of the legendary Italian enologist Giacomo Tachis. Back then, the wine saw 100% oak aging and malolactic fermentation. It has come a long way since then, as tastings of the recent vintages attest. However, the charming Umani Ronchi 1996 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio takes us 27 years back in time. It shows lots of creamy vanilla and pastry cream from Seguin Moreau barrel. The wine is richly concentrated and packed with dried apricot and orchard fruit, but it's still going strong, despite the very different stylistic approach.