The estate’s 2005 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio reveals ripe peaches, apricots, minerals, smoke and honey all of which are deftly woven into a richly-textured frame of notable elegance. This beautifully proportioned, harmonious wine from Umani Ronchi represents an intense, full-bodied style of Verdicchio where all the components come together quite nicely. The use of French oak contributes to the wine’s volume and intensity. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Umani Ronchi is one of the Marche’s historic properties. The entry-level wines offer lovely balance but many of the top selections come across as overdone, particularly when it comes to the use of French oak. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725